7:00am – 6:00pm

Garden deckingin Kenilworth and across Warwickshireframed properly, so there is no bounce

Timber and composite decks on a substructure built for the span: level, firmly supported, ventilated underneath and finished with clean edges, steps and fixings that stay tight.

Free quote within 48 hours · Fixed price on around 95% of jobs

10 years in the trade

5 of them running SOS Landscaping

Checkatrade approved

CHAS accredited

Fixed price on ~95% of jobs

Written before we start

Quotes within 48 hours

Same or next day locally

Team of two or more

Frames set square and level

Service overview

What building a deck actually involves

A deck is a structure, and almost everything that makes it good or bad is underneath the boards. Bearers and joists have to be sized and spaced for the span, supported on solid pads or posts rather than soil, set dead level and square, and left with ventilation and drainage beneath so the timber can dry. Boards are then fixed down with consistent gaps, edges trimmed cleanly and any steps built to matching rises.

We build raised and ground-level decks, seating platforms, hot tub bases, steps down to a lawn, and decked areas that link to a patio or sleeper wall. Composite and timber both work; they just want different detailing, particularly around expansion gaps and fixings.

Decking is the right answer where a garden falls away and a level platform is wanted without a large retaining structure, where a soft, warm surface underfoot suits an evening seating area, over an area that cannot easily be excavated, and where the space needs a defined outdoor room rather than more paving.

Professional installation matters for span and support. A frame with joists spaced too far apart flexes and bounces; one bearing directly on soil rots and settles. Both faults are invisible on day one and unavoidable a couple of years later.

Why it matters

What happens when decking is built badly

Bounce is the first symptom of an undersized or over-spanned frame. It feels unnerving, it works fixings loose, and it puts stress into joints that were never designed to flex. Over time boards cup, screws lift and the whole deck starts to creak.

Rot is the second, and it is nearly always a ventilation problem. Timber in direct contact with soil, or a frame boxed in so tightly that air cannot move under it, stays damp permanently. The boards may look fine while the structure beneath them softens, which is exactly the failure mode that becomes dangerous on a raised deck.

Then there is the slip and trip side: no fall or drainage so water sits on the surface, algae building up on a shaded deck, uneven step rises, and a raised deck without proper balustrade where there should be one. Rebuilding a deck means stripping the boards and replacing the frame, so the money saved on the substructure is spent twice over.

Mistakes we are called out to fix

  • Joists spanning too farThe deck bounces, and fixings work loose over time.
  • Frame in contact with soilTimber stays wet and rots from underneath, invisibly.
  • No ventilation beneathA sealed void keeps moisture in and shortens the deck's life dramatically.
  • No drainage gapsWater sits on the boards, and algae makes the surface slippery.
  • Wrong fixingsNon-corrosion-resistant screws stain the timber and fail early.
Our process

From first call to finished work

  1. Step 1

    Site visit and levels

    Guy checks ground conditions, height against thresholds and the lawn, how water moves, and where steps and edges should go, then talks through timber versus composite.

  2. Step 2

    Free fixed-price quote

    A written figure covering ground preparation, substructure, boarding and steps, usually the same or next day locally and within 48 hours at the latest.

  3. Step 3

    Prepare the ground

    Area cleared and levelled, vegetation dealt with and membrane laid where appropriate, then solid pads or posts set so no timber sits on bare soil.

  4. Step 4

    Build the frame

    Bearers and joists sized and spaced for the span, set square and level, fixed with corrosion-resistant fixings, and detailed to leave ventilation and drainage beneath.

  5. Step 5

    Board, trim, step and check

    Boards laid with consistent gaps and expansion allowance, edges trimmed and finished, steps built to matching rises, site cleared, and a walk-round with you. Anything needing attention later, call Guy.

What you get

The difference it makes in your garden

Solid underfoot

Correct joist spacing and support means no bounce and no creaking.

Longer life

Ventilation, drainage and no soil contact are what keep a substructure sound.

Level space on a slope

A platform over falling ground without a full retaining structure.

Warm and comfortable

Timber and composite are softer and warmer underfoot than stone on a summer evening.

Safer edges and steps

Consistent step rises, clean trimmed edges and fixings that stay flush.

Low upkeep with composite

Where you would rather not sand and treat timber every couple of years.

In detail

Materials, methods and where decking apply

Timber or composite

Pressure-treated softwood is the cost-effective choice and looks naturally at home in a planted garden, but it needs cleaning and treating periodically to stay looking its best and to shed water rather than soak it up. Hardwood decking is denser, more stable and longer-lived, at a higher material cost. Composite boards cost more up front and need almost no maintenance beyond washing, hold their colour, and do not splinter, which is why they are popular around hot tubs and where children play.

Board profile is worth a thought too. Grooved boards were once sold as anti-slip but tend to trap debris; smooth or lightly textured boards generally stay cleaner and safer. Whichever you choose, the substructure is built to the same standard, and since materials are bought by you, the choice is genuinely yours to make on cost and look.

  • Treated softwoodBest value, natural look, periodic treating needed.
  • HardwoodDenser and more stable, longer service life.
  • CompositeMinimal maintenance, colour-stable, no splintering.
  • Steps and balustradeMatching risers, handrails and posts where the height needs them.
  • Skirting and ventilation detailCloses the deck in visually while keeping air moving underneath.

Substructure and detailing

Joist spacing is decided by the board being used and the span, not by habit: composite and timber often want different centres. Bearers sit on solid pads or posts so no structural timber is in contact with soil, and the whole frame is set level and square before a single board goes down, because a frame out of square is impossible to disguise once boarding starts.

Ventilation and drainage are designed in. There is a clear void beneath the deck, the ground below is prepared so water can get away, and any skirting is detailed to allow airflow rather than sealing the void shut. That single decision does more for the life of a deck than any surface treatment.

Boards are laid with consistent gaps for drainage and expansion, ends supported rather than cantilevered, and cut edges finished. Fixings are corrosion-resistant so they neither stain the timber nor fail early. Where the deck meets the house, levels are set so nothing bridges the damp-proof course; where it meets paving or lawn, the transition is detailed so there is no lip to trip on.

Common decking projects

The most frequent is a raised platform off the back of the house where the garden drops away, giving a level seating area at door height with steps down to the lawn. Next is a ground-level deck as an alternative to a patio, often in a shaded spot where paving would green up quickly.

Hot tub bases need particular attention because of the concentrated weight, so the frame and supports are specified for the load rather than a general-purpose deck build-up. Other regular jobs include a deck around a summer house or garden office, a small platform to sit at the far end of a garden to catch the evening sun, and decked steps linking two levels alongside a sleeper wall.

Decking is often combined with fencing, sleeper edging or paving so the whole garden reads as one scheme. Where a surface will be in permanent damp shade and heavily used, Guy will be straight with you that paving may be the better long-term choice, including when it means quoting a patio instead.

Where we work

Decking across Kenilworth and Warwickshire

Based at 24 Common Lane, Kenilworth. Local work gets priced fastest: often the same day. Just outside these areas? It is still worth a call.

Related work

See all services, read about Guy Finch, our Kenilworth landscaper or check the landscaping areas covered in Warwickshire.

Common questions

Decking: straight answers

How much does decking cost?

It depends on the area, the height above ground, the substructure needed, steps and whether you choose timber or composite. Guy quotes after seeing the site, and around 95% of jobs are fixed-price in writing. Boards are bought by you, so material cost is transparent.

How long does a deck take to build?

Most domestic decks are a matter of days, with the frame taking longer than the boarding on anything raised. You get a realistic duration with the quote.

Timber or composite, which should I choose?

Timber costs less and looks natural but needs cleaning and treating periodically. Composite costs more up front and then asks almost nothing of you. If the deck is around a hot tub or used constantly by children, composite usually earns its money.

Is decking slippery in winter?

Any surface in damp shade will grow algae, and that is what makes decks slippery rather than the timber itself. Good drainage gaps, airflow beneath and an occasional wash keep it safe: jet washing decking is a job we do regularly.

Do I need planning permission for decking?

Ground-level decking is usually straightforward, but height above ground and proximity to boundaries can bring it into scope. If your project looks like it might need consent, Guy will flag it at the quote stage so you can check with the council.

How long will a deck last?

Life is decided by the substructure and ventilation far more than the boards. A frame kept clear of soil with air moving under it lasts dramatically longer than one boxed in and sitting on the ground.

Can you build a deck for a hot tub?

Yes, with the frame and supports specified for the concentrated weight. Tell Guy the tub model at the quote stage so it is designed for that load from the start.

Can you replace boards on my existing deck?

Sometimes: it depends entirely on the condition of the frame underneath. Guy will check the substructure before recommending it, because new boards on a failing frame is money wasted.

What if a board or fixing works loose later?

We stand behind our work. If anything ever needs attention after we have finished, give Guy a call and he will come back and put it right.

Do you build decking in Knowle, Chadwick End and Leek Wootton?

Yes. Kenilworth, Leamington, Warwick, Coventry, Balsall Common, Chadwick End, Knowle, Earlsdon and Leek Wootton are all areas we cover.

Free quote

Get your deck priced this week

Tell Guy roughly how big the deck needs to be and how high off the ground. You will have a free fixed-price quote, usually within 48 hours.

Prefer to talk it through?

07466 254430

finchfinishings@gmail.com
Hours: 7:00am – 6:00pm

Free quotes · Fixed prices · Checkatrade approved · CHAS accredited

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